Bangkok

“Not only do you have beautiful things, but what is rare, you have arranged them with faultless taste,” wrote Somerset Maugham in a letter to Jim Thompson, whose former home is now a not-to-be-missed museum. The self-made American entrepreneur came to Thailand in the late 1940s, after World War II. In subsequent years, Thompson single-handedly revived Thai silk weaving, a craft that had been slowly dying out. Not only did he revitalize an industry that runs strong to this day, he also championed socially responsible business practices, letting his female weavers work from home (where they were able to watch their children) and giving the core group of his weavers shares in his Thai Silk Company. Thompson disappeared under mysterious circumstances in Malaysia in 1967. There are lots of theories of what happened to him; be sure to ask your guide.

Thompson was a major collector of Southeast Asian art, and many of his unique finds from Burma (Myanmar), Cambodia and Laos are displayed in the house, which he began building in 1958. The complex is made up of several typical Thai houses that were taken apart and moved from Ayutthaya, the ancient capital. It’s a stunning oasis of beauty and serenity and the second-most-visited attraction in Bangkok (trumped only by the Grand Palace). Open 9 a.m.–5 p.m.

Tip: You can visit the interior of the home only on a guided tour. When you purchase your ticket, you are given a place on the next tour given in your language. During the unavoidable wait, you are encouraged to hang out in the boutique; a nicer way to while away the time is to have a coffee at the gorgeous little café and restaurant on the property.

The Chinese are one of the oldest and largest immigrant communities in Bangkok, and their presence was one of the reasons the city expanded as rapidly as it did in the 19th century. Chinatown, on the eastern bank of the Chao Phraya River, consists of a maddening labyrinth of tiny alleys, most lined with food stalls of all kinds and vendors selling everything from amulets and beaded jewelry to huge statues of the Buddha and bags of chili peppers. (If you purchase one of Nancy Chandler’s handy maps, you’ll find an entire section dedicated to Chinatown.)

It’s a good idea to visit this section of town with a guide, who can point out the highlights and then take the quickest route to the nearby Grand Palace and the temples. Sensitive souls should know that the smells they’ll encounter will be intense, especially in the heat, and that the heaps of animal parts, meat and fish (dried, picked, raw, still alive) are a vegetarian’s worst nightmare. Don’t miss the spectacular flower market, where an armful of orchids costs no more than three dollars, and the soaring halls where masses of spices, fruits and vegetables are sold.

Chinatown, and its subset of markets is best experiences with a local guide. Contact our bookings department for a specialized tour will kick off at the Ea Sae teahouse, which opened in 1929 and is where the old men of the neighborhood still start their mornings with cha-yen (iced tea) and gossip (you’ll find their wives in Lumpini Park, practicing tai chi). If you go alone, take a taxi to Yaowarat Road, then dive into any of the side lanes that lead to the river. Before you know it, you’ll be lost in the maze that is Bangkok’s Chinatown.

Plan to spend several hours exploring the Grand Palace, a sprawling complex that was the official residence of the king of Thailand from the 18th to the mid-20th centuries. As with any palace in Europe, each expansion was the work of another king, but perhaps the most influential touches were added by King Chulalongkorn (Rama V), whose father was the inspiration for The King and I. (Even though the story of British schoolteacher Anna Leonowens and the six years she spent at the court teaching English to the king’s wives, concubines and children—including Chulalongkorn—is revered by the Thai people, the Hollywood film starring Jodie Foster and Chow Yun Fat is not. In fact, it was banned in Thailand because of major historical inaccuracies.)

King Chulalongkorn was keenly interested in Western politics and administration, and his insight and political savvy is often credited as the reason why Thailand (then Siam) was never colonized. At the Grand Palace, King Chulalongkorn, who traveled widely in Asia and Europe, instigated the building of the Borom Phiman mansion, a whimsical combination of Thai and neoclassical French architecture (today it houses heads of state who travel to Thailand). The big attraction at the Grand Palace, to a large extent, is the spectacular temple of the Emerald Buddha, carved entirely of green jade and clothed in gold. Note that your ticket to see the Grand Palace is also valid for a same-day visit to the Dusit Palace.

This temple complex near the Grand Palace Bangkok contains more than 1,000 images of the Buddha and is most famous for the massive 46-meter-long (151-foot-long) reclining Buddha, who lies stretched out on his side, head in hand, like a movie star. Buddha’s reclining position represents his entering Nirvana- a state of complete release from all human confines and desires signifying the end of reincarnation – one of the most significant passing in Buddhist religion. Don’t miss the bottoms of the Buddha’s feet, which are stunningly decorated with mother-of-pearl images. Before the complex became a temple, Wat Pho was a center for traditional Thai medicine and massage, and throughout the buildings you can find plaques with medical inscriptions in antiquated dialect and small sculptures showcasing yoga positions. The Thai massage school at Wat Pho is highly acclaimed, and many of the therapists you will encounter in the top resorts trained there.

River Hawk International Limited Tip: The complex is best experienced at night after the crowds have come and gone and the temples stand well lit in the silence of night. Contact River Hawk International Limited’s Bookings Team for information about the night tour.

Touring the khlongs (canals) is a must for first-time visitors, and River Hawk International Limited members can contact our bookings team for help setting up a tour in a slender longboat, which can get into the narrow waterways.

River Hawk International Limited Tip: Be sure to factor in tides timing and plan a tour to avoid waiting around at the sluice to get in and out of the canals.